The shrieking outbursts are so loud you need heavy-grade ear protection to walk down the street. People had warned me the dogs were loud, but I was woefully underprepared for the volume of their exuberance. Standing in the staging area at the 2019 Iditarod, watching as dog after dog is harnessed into its place on the line, I realize I am experiencing a bucket-list moment. Funny, because I spent most of my life in fear of these domesticated beasts.
We went to Alaska to celebrate my spouse J’s birthday in style. He lived in Anchorage for a year before we met, and we went to the Great White North a few summers ago to experience Alaska together When we realized the 2019 Iditarod was on March 3, his 40th birthday, we called our local friends and booked a winter trip.
Growing up, I remember learning about famous mushers like Susan Butcher and Jeff King who never slept and covered 1,000 miles in nine or ten days. Today we know more about our complicated heroes like Lance Mackey, but we root for them all the same. I’m not sure why, but the race inspires awe: awe for the dogs, for the mushers, and for the history of the race itself.
Experiencing the Iditarod in person is easier than you might think, and is just as awesome as you would imagine watching it on TV. If you’re planning to make a trip to experience the magic, here are a few tips to help you on your way:
Transportation & Lodging
The many glaciers and fjords of Alaska as seen from above. Pancake ice as seen from the air, Alaska.
You’ll want to fly in and out of Anchorage. The views from the plane are stunning on a clear day – go for a window seat! It’s easy to get a rental car at the airport and drive into town (or, presumably, take a hotel shuttle). I recommend getting a car, and taking a drive through the beautiful surrounds. After our time in Anchorage, we opted to spend three days in a secluded lake-cabin to ski, and we wouldn’t have been able to explore that area without a car. Parking was pretty easy, even in town.
I recommend staying in downtown Anchorage. Anchorage is easy to navigate, and if you’re just in town for Fur Rondy (short for Fur Rendezvous) you can walk to anything related to the 10-day festival. The ceremonial start kicks off down Fourth Avenue, so if you find a spot on Fourth (on the route) you can watch from your hotel room.
Weather Preparedness
In case you haven’t heard, it’s COLD in Alaska. I’m from Montana, and we were there when it was unseasonably warm, but I was still chilly in the shade. Plan to dress in layers and be sure you have especially warm footwear.
You’ll want snow boots with good traction and insulation. I recommend wearing warm insulating layers under your outside pants, or if needed wearing snow pants. Don’t forget warm mittens, hats, and scarves too. And if you’ve been on the fence about getting a down skirt, now is the time! If you’re worried you’ll be too hot/too cold, bring a backpack and toss in a few extra layers.
Festival Know-How
The Iditarod “officially” kicks off with the ceremonial start in Anchorage every year at the beginning of March. The mushers line the side streets and take off through a starting line as their bio is announced to the crowd. They then “race” 11 miles to a nearby airstrip, where they load up the dogs and drive another 30 miles to Willow, AK, where the race officially starts the next day.
To compliment the race, Anchorage hosts a 10-day Fur Rendezvous (Fur Rondy) festival complete with a fur auction, ice sculpture competition, country fair (complete with rides), fireworks, dogsled rides, and, my favorite, the Reindeer Run. If you are at all interested, you should run with the reindeer and send me your pictures! We were able to see everything we wanted to in one full day downtown, so if you’re short on time or are trying to squeeze this into an existing itinerary, it’s possible to get a taste of the magic.
Note that everything happens up and down Fourth Avenue, and that the side streets are blocked off as well for the mushers staging area. Plan to find a main spot to hang out, as it’s difficult to cross Fourth and you need to walk way around the closed blocks when you get further from the start line.
The Dogs
Iditarod dogs. An Iditarod dog with one blue and one brown eye. I snuck behind the barrier for one quick pic. The ceremonial start of the Iditarod.
Our friends in Alaska know a gal who was mushing in the 2019 Iditarod – in fact one of them has served as a dog handler for her for many years. With a little bit of luck, our alaskan saint was able to get J an armband pass to act as a dog handler! What a great birthday present. I captured many pictures as J learned to harness up the dogs, then he hooked them into the line and tried his best to keep the dogs calm. At one point, two pups seemed to be in competition to see who could bark louder for longer. Kind of like a starting competition, only for your vocal chords.
I was surprised at how affectionate the dogs were, and how small! Some looked to be as little as 35 pounds, but when they were tied up to the rope they knew they had a job and were they ever excited about it! Plan to bring earplugs if you want to wander, and remember that lots of dogs mean lots of dog poop and even though it’s cleaned up quickly, the smell is noticeable.
Other Recommendations
When we visit Anchorage there are a few places we love to go. I recommend Midnight Sun Brewery for the name alone, but also their beer is great (as are their t-shirts). King Street Brewing is also delightful, and 49th State has some of the best appetizers I’ve ever eaten (ahi tuna nachos anyone? Yes please!).
You can also visit the Ulu Factory, where you can watch the knives being made (and pick one up). The old train station next door (these are both right by the ice sculpture competition) is also worth walking through. The city has a pet reindeer named Star who lives downtown. You can go see her too. And fun fact: a reindeer is just a domesticated caribou. They’re the same animal. (Same thing with cougars, mountain lions, and pumas = all the same thing, just called different names based on where you live.)
The place you absolutely must go is F Street Station. There, you will find a giant block of cheese and an incredible halibut sandwich. Also: a full bar. Go there. You’re welcome.
There you have it. Everything (I think) you need to know to go to the Iditarod. What’d I miss? Shoot me questions in the comments.
I remember going to something related to the 1990 Iditarod (I don’t think it was the Fur Rod, but maybe it was an exhibition of sorts later in the spring?) when we lived in Alaska. Daryl went as a handler for a Jr. Iditarod team (they drove 27 dogs from just south of Missoula to Anchorage and blew 12+ tires on the drive up!) in 2012. One day I’ll make it back.